February 26 2012 – Richmond – 5th Annual Virginia Wine Expo

Still feeling rather jet-lagged having just got home from Scotland, Mark and I headed South down the I-95 early on the Sunday morning.  We made it to Richmond in good time, so spent an hour or so in the magnificent Fine Arts Museum – where we found an unbelievable collection of British sporting art, Asian & African art, Faberge & a lot more besides.  The Wine Expo opened at noon and we were among the first to arrive.   We were told this was the best day to visit of the three, and certainly the Convention Center was never unduly full or crowded, although we did miss all the Saturday seminars (I had been particularly interested in Why Virginia?  The State of Virginia Wine – bother). We made a short list of wineries to visit based on the programme, previous research and also the winners of the Governor’s Cup which had been judged on the Thursday.  So over the course of the afternoon, we spoke to representatives of Bluestone,  Cardinal Point, Delfosse, Gabriele Rausse, Glen Manor, Ingleside, King Family, Pollak, Potomac Point & Virginia Wineworks.  In total, there were over 450 different wines on offer from more than 75 wineries, so some selection-process was highly necessary!

The last of the above was our first port of call.  Virginia Wineworks near Charlottesville is also home of Michael Shaps Wines, and this man has had a great influence on wine-making in Virginia, having been involved previously at Jefferson Vineyards and King Family Vineyards.  They were showcasing their value-orientated wines, as well as their more exclusive wines that bear his name.  The best of the latter style to our mind was the Michael Shaps Meritage  (44% Petit Verdot, 33% Merlot, 23% Cabernet France), but @ $40 a bottle, we wanted more from it, it was lacking convincing body and length.  The Viognier @ $24 was very ordinary.  The 3-litre Bag in Box Chardonnay and Cabernet France were pretty missable, but quaffable enough @ $30 each.  Worth noting that Virginia Wineworks also boasts the state’s only custom crush facility.

Pollak Vineyards are located 15 miles West of Charlottesville, in Greenwood, boasting 100% estate-grown single varietal wines from vines are planted on 27 acres, all hand-picked.  Liked the 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon, plum & cherry, smooth tannins, long finish, $25.  2010 Pinot Gris had nice elderflower & citrus notes, but an off-dry, honeyed finish, $18.  Intriguing Mille Fleurs 2009 fortified, port-style wine from Viognier plus eau-de-vie, oak-aged, intense peach and citrus on the palate, $30.  Winemaker Benoit Pineau is doing a great job here – and we enjoyed our chat to Nick Dovel and his girlfriend who were about to head to Italy for some downtime.  NB – worth a visit in the Spring.

Next up was King Family where we spoke to the very-knowledgable Judi Bowers about the property and its products. Very much a family-run business, their first vintage was in 2000, making just a couple of hundred cases of wine.  Today, over 5,500 cases p.a. are produced, 88% of the fruit coming directly from the 20 acres planted on the farm in Crozet, the rest from the Monticello AVA.  Winemaker Matthieu Finot hails from Crozes Hermitage and is passionate about terroir.  The property includes a polo field, but the main focus in on the vineyards.  The 2011 Crose is a 100% Merlot dry rose, 20 hours on skin, off-dry, refreshing, $16.95.  Their 2010 Cabernet Franc had just won a Bronze Medal in the Governor’s Cup Competition, 9 months in barrel, showing good spice and pepper with medium tannins, $22.95.  Lastly, we liked their Meritage 2009, winner of a Silver Medal (52% Merlot, 20% CF, 20% PV, 8% Malbec), mocha and cherry on the nose, wood & liquorice on the palate, well rounded, would age well, $26.95.  One of the best reds of the day.

Delfosse – no tasting notes, and can’t remember why – either very good or very bad!  Just remember the funky labels, perhaps we need to revisit.  I did note that their 2007 Meritage won a Gold Medal in the Governor’s Cup!

Gabriele Rausse – not open to the public, this was a good opportunity to speak to the assistant winemaker Tim (the legendary GR’s son) who explained that they produce only 1,500 cases p.a.  Most of the grapes are bought in, so for example the Pinot Noir comes from a 2-acre lot leased near James River.  A nice Pinot Grigio 2010, followed by the highlight – a fabulous and totally original Vin Gris de Pinot Noir 2010, made with fully ripe PN, no maceration, stainless steel fermentation, apple, crisp, bold, $15.

The best thing about our visit to the Ingleside stand was Paul, our pourer.  He was so patient with all our questions and really knew his stuff.  Ingleside, on the Northern Neck of the Chesapeake near Oak Grove (30 miles East of Fredericksburg), was the fifth Virginian winery to open way back in 1980, and now has 65 acres planted to vinefera, on sand and clay.  They produce 10-15,000 cases p.a., so a big operation, but it has somehow kept its integrity and style.  Winemaker Bill Swain, ex-UC Davis, via Oregon & Venuzuela, has been here from the get-go.  They were the first winery in the state to make sparkling wine using the traditional Methode Champenoise and also the first to plant and bottle Petit Verdot.  We had an incredible tasting of approximately 12 wines, from their flagship Blue Crab Blanc and Red @ $13 per bottle, through an excellent Sangiovese 2008 with prunes, vegetal notes, good depth, needs pasta, $18, to the Petit Verdot Reserve 2007, a massive inky dark, big, bold wine, rich tannins, yet smooth, 33 months on 50% French oak, $28.  Check out their website for accommodation on the estate and make a weekend of your visit – there are  jazz evenings, barrel tastings, Ladies Only wine classes, etc. to be enjoyed right through the year.

Bluestone Vineyard was celebrating its numerous Governor’s Cup successes, topped by a Gold Medal awarded to the 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon – not bad for a winery that only opened its tasting room 18 months ago.  Located in Bridgewater in the western Shenandoah valley, winemaker Lee Herman is producing quality wines on its 12 acres (70% of the fruit is bought in) under the guidance of Michael Shaps.  Their 2010 Viognier had won a Bronze medal, their 2010 Chardonnay a Silver, their N/V Quartz Hill Red another Bronze, their 2010 Cabernet Franc a Bronze, and their 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon a Gold.  The latter in particular was crying out to be cellared, still big and bold, hefty finish, 15.2% ABV, $25.50.  We didn’t get a chance to try their “ice wine” made from frozen Traminette grapes, so we will just have to visit the winery ourselves.

Cardinal Point was an unscheduled stop, but we’re so glad we did.  Drink For Yourself is their catch-phrase – gotta love it!  Sarah Gorman (an Army brat!), their Business Manager, was awesome and she explained that her brother Tim is the winemaker.  Based near Afton in the Blue Ridge Mountains, the winery was built in 2002 and is producing 2-3,000 cases p.a.  We loved the labels and the wine wasn’t half bad either.  First up, 2011 Green, $16, 50% Manseng, 50% Chardonnay, picked early, malic acid, bright, pizazz, vinho verde-like.  Next the 2010 A6, a blend of Viognier & Chardonnay, non-oaked, honey gold in colour, neutral oak, aromatic, up front, delicious, $19.  On to their 2010 Quattro – utterly unique – a blend of Riesling, Gewurtraminer, Viognier & Traminette, an elegant, clean, fun wine, with an underlying, but non-cloying, sweetness, $17.  As for the reds…..  2010 Clay Hill Cabernet Franc, 100% CF from fruit grown by neighbours, dark, mysterious, lush, pepper, strong tannins, $20.  Lastly a 2010 Union (75% PV, 13% CS, 12% CF) @ $25, very young still, hold on to this one, but showing typical Bordeaux traits, deep and plummy.  What a find – a small winery making really good wines off the beaten track.

Glen Manor Vineyards had just been awarded the Governor’s Cup 2012, but you would never have guessed from the modest stand – although there was obvious delight in their win.  Winemaker Jeffrey White is the fourth-generation farmer of the property – his family have been in the area since 1787 and have farmed here since 1901 – but it was he who had the vision to diversify from farming and establish the original vineyards back in 1995 on land where orchards once grew.  “Wines with a sense of place” is their strap-line and he does strongly believe that knowledge of your terroir is vital to ones success in growing good fruit.   The vines are grown on 14.5 acres high on steep mountain slopes, in very deep and well-drained rocky soil, so the plants have to work hard to flourish.  He is only producing 2,000 cases p.a., mainly Sauvignon Blanc and red Bordeaux blends and varietals.  We started with the 2011 Sauvignon Blanc, $23, herbal & hay on the nose, crisp mineral palate, clean.  We were able to taste almost the last of the Governor’s Cup Winner, their 2009 Hodder Hill, a superb blend of 63% CS, 25% Merlot, 6% PV & 6% CF, only 200 cases made, $35.  This was a complex, structured wine, red berries on the nose, good tannins, bright acidity, great length, so plenty of cellar life.  I do hope he keeps some back to enjoy over the next 10 years or so.  Definitely a place to seek out and begin to understand how such a small enterprise can knock all the competition into a cockit hat.

At the other extreme of winemaking was our last stand, Potomac Point, located in Stafford (so the nearest winery to Washington DC) which opened in 2007.  Leah poured the wines and we also met the owner, Cindi Causey.  This is a flamboyant, moneyed place, full of passion and flair, with a purpose-built Tuscan-style tasting room, shop and wedding venue.  They produce 11 red, white & sparkling wines, but it’s not truly wine that this place is all about – they are “a step away from your everyday”, aiming at special events and weddings.  They were however justly proud of their Governor’s Case Gold Medal for the 2009 Heritage, $29, baked red cherry on the palate and a decent finish.  A nice 2009 Chardonnay Reserve, $22, was the other highlight of the flight, melon & vanilla, 100% French oak, creamy, lush.  An extraordinary end to a fascinating day, well spent, exploring the showcase of Virginian wines.