February 26 2012 – Richmond – 5th Annual Virginia Wine Expo

Still feeling rather jet-lagged having just got home from Scotland, Mark and I headed South down the I-95 early on the Sunday morning.  We made it to Richmond in good time, so spent an hour or so in the magnificent Fine Arts Museum – where we found an unbelievable collection of British sporting art, Asian & African art, Faberge & a lot more besides.  The Wine Expo opened at noon and we were among the first to arrive.   We were told this was the best day to visit of the three, and certainly the Convention Center was never unduly full or crowded, although we did miss all the Saturday seminars (I had been particularly interested in Why Virginia?  The State of Virginia Wine – bother). We made a short list of wineries to visit based on the programme, previous research and also the winners of the Governor’s Cup which had been judged on the Thursday.  So over the course of the afternoon, we spoke to representatives of Bluestone,  Cardinal Point, Delfosse, Gabriele Rausse, Glen Manor, Ingleside, King Family, Pollak, Potomac Point & Virginia Wineworks.  In total, there were over 450 different wines on offer from more than 75 wineries, so some selection-process was highly necessary!

The last of the above was our first port of call.  Virginia Wineworks near Charlottesville is also home of Michael Shaps Wines, and this man has had a great influence on wine-making in Virginia, having been involved previously at Jefferson Vineyards and King Family Vineyards.  They were showcasing their value-orientated wines, as well as their more exclusive wines that bear his name.  The best of the latter style to our mind was the Michael Shaps Meritage  (44% Petit Verdot, 33% Merlot, 23% Cabernet France), but @ $40 a bottle, we wanted more from it, it was lacking convincing body and length.  The Viognier @ $24 was very ordinary.  The 3-litre Bag in Box Chardonnay and Cabernet France were pretty missable, but quaffable enough @ $30 each.  Worth noting that Virginia Wineworks also boasts the state’s only custom crush facility.

Pollak Vineyards are located 15 miles West of Charlottesville, in Greenwood, boasting 100% estate-grown single varietal wines from vines are planted on 27 acres, all hand-picked.  Liked the 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon, plum & cherry, smooth tannins, long finish, $25.  2010 Pinot Gris had nice elderflower & citrus notes, but an off-dry, honeyed finish, $18.  Intriguing Mille Fleurs 2009 fortified, port-style wine from Viognier plus eau-de-vie, oak-aged, intense peach and citrus on the palate, $30.  Winemaker Benoit Pineau is doing a great job here – and we enjoyed our chat to Nick Dovel and his girlfriend who were about to head to Italy for some downtime.  NB – worth a visit in the Spring.

Next up was King Family where we spoke to the very-knowledgable Judi Bowers about the property and its products. Very much a family-run business, their first vintage was in 2000, making just a couple of hundred cases of wine.  Today, over 5,500 cases p.a. are produced, 88% of the fruit coming directly from the 20 acres planted on the farm in Crozet, the rest from the Monticello AVA.  Winemaker Matthieu Finot hails from Crozes Hermitage and is passionate about terroir.  The property includes a polo field, but the main focus in on the vineyards.  The 2011 Crose is a 100% Merlot dry rose, 20 hours on skin, off-dry, refreshing, $16.95.  Their 2010 Cabernet Franc had just won a Bronze Medal in the Governor’s Cup Competition, 9 months in barrel, showing good spice and pepper with medium tannins, $22.95.  Lastly, we liked their Meritage 2009, winner of a Silver Medal (52% Merlot, 20% CF, 20% PV, 8% Malbec), mocha and cherry on the nose, wood & liquorice on the palate, well rounded, would age well, $26.95.  One of the best reds of the day.

Delfosse – no tasting notes, and can’t remember why – either very good or very bad!  Just remember the funky labels, perhaps we need to revisit.  I did note that their 2007 Meritage won a Gold Medal in the Governor’s Cup!

Gabriele Rausse – not open to the public, this was a good opportunity to speak to the assistant winemaker Tim (the legendary GR’s son) who explained that they produce only 1,500 cases p.a.  Most of the grapes are bought in, so for example the Pinot Noir comes from a 2-acre lot leased near James River.  A nice Pinot Grigio 2010, followed by the highlight – a fabulous and totally original Vin Gris de Pinot Noir 2010, made with fully ripe PN, no maceration, stainless steel fermentation, apple, crisp, bold, $15.

The best thing about our visit to the Ingleside stand was Paul, our pourer.  He was so patient with all our questions and really knew his stuff.  Ingleside, on the Northern Neck of the Chesapeake near Oak Grove (30 miles East of Fredericksburg), was the fifth Virginian winery to open way back in 1980, and now has 65 acres planted to vinefera, on sand and clay.  They produce 10-15,000 cases p.a., so a big operation, but it has somehow kept its integrity and style.  Winemaker Bill Swain, ex-UC Davis, via Oregon & Venuzuela, has been here from the get-go.  They were the first winery in the state to make sparkling wine using the traditional Methode Champenoise and also the first to plant and bottle Petit Verdot.  We had an incredible tasting of approximately 12 wines, from their flagship Blue Crab Blanc and Red @ $13 per bottle, through an excellent Sangiovese 2008 with prunes, vegetal notes, good depth, needs pasta, $18, to the Petit Verdot Reserve 2007, a massive inky dark, big, bold wine, rich tannins, yet smooth, 33 months on 50% French oak, $28.  Check out their website for accommodation on the estate and make a weekend of your visit – there are  jazz evenings, barrel tastings, Ladies Only wine classes, etc. to be enjoyed right through the year.

Bluestone Vineyard was celebrating its numerous Governor’s Cup successes, topped by a Gold Medal awarded to the 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon – not bad for a winery that only opened its tasting room 18 months ago.  Located in Bridgewater in the western Shenandoah valley, winemaker Lee Herman is producing quality wines on its 12 acres (70% of the fruit is bought in) under the guidance of Michael Shaps.  Their 2010 Viognier had won a Bronze medal, their 2010 Chardonnay a Silver, their N/V Quartz Hill Red another Bronze, their 2010 Cabernet Franc a Bronze, and their 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon a Gold.  The latter in particular was crying out to be cellared, still big and bold, hefty finish, 15.2% ABV, $25.50.  We didn’t get a chance to try their “ice wine” made from frozen Traminette grapes, so we will just have to visit the winery ourselves.

Cardinal Point was an unscheduled stop, but we’re so glad we did.  Drink For Yourself is their catch-phrase – gotta love it!  Sarah Gorman (an Army brat!), their Business Manager, was awesome and she explained that her brother Tim is the winemaker.  Based near Afton in the Blue Ridge Mountains, the winery was built in 2002 and is producing 2-3,000 cases p.a.  We loved the labels and the wine wasn’t half bad either.  First up, 2011 Green, $16, 50% Manseng, 50% Chardonnay, picked early, malic acid, bright, pizazz, vinho verde-like.  Next the 2010 A6, a blend of Viognier & Chardonnay, non-oaked, honey gold in colour, neutral oak, aromatic, up front, delicious, $19.  On to their 2010 Quattro – utterly unique – a blend of Riesling, Gewurtraminer, Viognier & Traminette, an elegant, clean, fun wine, with an underlying, but non-cloying, sweetness, $17.  As for the reds…..  2010 Clay Hill Cabernet Franc, 100% CF from fruit grown by neighbours, dark, mysterious, lush, pepper, strong tannins, $20.  Lastly a 2010 Union (75% PV, 13% CS, 12% CF) @ $25, very young still, hold on to this one, but showing typical Bordeaux traits, deep and plummy.  What a find – a small winery making really good wines off the beaten track.

Glen Manor Vineyards had just been awarded the Governor’s Cup 2012, but you would never have guessed from the modest stand – although there was obvious delight in their win.  Winemaker Jeffrey White is the fourth-generation farmer of the property – his family have been in the area since 1787 and have farmed here since 1901 – but it was he who had the vision to diversify from farming and establish the original vineyards back in 1995 on land where orchards once grew.  “Wines with a sense of place” is their strap-line and he does strongly believe that knowledge of your terroir is vital to ones success in growing good fruit.   The vines are grown on 14.5 acres high on steep mountain slopes, in very deep and well-drained rocky soil, so the plants have to work hard to flourish.  He is only producing 2,000 cases p.a., mainly Sauvignon Blanc and red Bordeaux blends and varietals.  We started with the 2011 Sauvignon Blanc, $23, herbal & hay on the nose, crisp mineral palate, clean.  We were able to taste almost the last of the Governor’s Cup Winner, their 2009 Hodder Hill, a superb blend of 63% CS, 25% Merlot, 6% PV & 6% CF, only 200 cases made, $35.  This was a complex, structured wine, red berries on the nose, good tannins, bright acidity, great length, so plenty of cellar life.  I do hope he keeps some back to enjoy over the next 10 years or so.  Definitely a place to seek out and begin to understand how such a small enterprise can knock all the competition into a cockit hat.

At the other extreme of winemaking was our last stand, Potomac Point, located in Stafford (so the nearest winery to Washington DC) which opened in 2007.  Leah poured the wines and we also met the owner, Cindi Causey.  This is a flamboyant, moneyed place, full of passion and flair, with a purpose-built Tuscan-style tasting room, shop and wedding venue.  They produce 11 red, white & sparkling wines, but it’s not truly wine that this place is all about – they are “a step away from your everyday”, aiming at special events and weddings.  They were however justly proud of their Governor’s Case Gold Medal for the 2009 Heritage, $29, baked red cherry on the palate and a decent finish.  A nice 2009 Chardonnay Reserve, $22, was the other highlight of the flight, melon & vanilla, 100% French oak, creamy, lush.  An extraordinary end to a fascinating day, well spent, exploring the showcase of Virginian wines.

Days 9 & 10 – from Napa to Monterey, then into the Santa Lucia Highlands

We left Napa with regret on Sunday morning and hightailed it to Monterey. We checked into our hotel, The Spindrift Inn right on Cannery Row, just the most idyllic hotel room ever, highly recommended if you want to be in on the action along the ocean front. Mark had to go and register for his conference, so I caught up with e-mails and planned my Monday in Monterey County.

Chateau Julien – European elegance in Carmel Valley

First stop on Monday morning was Chateau Julien in the Carmel Valley, a highly chic, European-inspired, set-up where I was welcomed by Barrie. This is a 16-acre, full production wine estate, complete with Chateau, chai, vineyards & cellar operations and they make 2 additional brand labels here, Emerald Bay and Hawk House. Owned since the 1970s by the Browers, winemaker Bill Anderson has been there from the very first vintage in 1985, making up to 60,000 cases now per annum, from the 16 acres in situ planted to Sangiovese, plus a further 250 acres “elsewhere in Monterey County”. Merlot is their flagship varietal, but we started the tasting flight with a 2010 Pinot Grigio, fruit-forward, floral aromas, dry (100% stainless steel fermentation), lively acidity, light & fresh with honeydew melon on the palate, $25. Next up their 2010 Reserve Sur Lie Chardonnay @ $32, a limited production wine produced from selected lots in the North Salinas valley, enabling long hang-time, giving this wine intense fruit and good acidity, yet maintaining the creaminess and texture you’d expect, great with salmon. Onto the reds (by the way, they do make a Rosata Sangiovese, but this wasn’t available). A 2009 Sangiovese single-varietal was a bit short on the nose, despite 16 months on half new French and half American oak, but full-bodied with great black cherry & spicy notes, good length and finish, $25. Their 2007 Private Reserve Merlot @ $42 was robust with pepper and cassis on the nose and palate, full-bodied, moderate tannins, ripe fruit, aged for 2+ years on new French oak, imparting a colour and complexity that will only improve over the next 10-20 years. As well as their Private Reserve wines and Barrel Selected wines, they also produce a Vintner’s Collection, and the 2007 Black Nova III from this special edition was extraordinary. $55, only 300 cases made, Bob Anderson makes a different blend each year – this vintage is 50% Malbec, 50% Syrah, aged in new Missouri oak barrels. The colour is inky black, bursting with bramble fruit, 15% ABV, complex and finishing nicely, hold on to this one.

Into the Santa Lucia Highlands

I had no idea what I was about to let myself in for. I drove over the top from the Carmel Valley road to join the Monterey-Salinas Highway, then branched off onto River Road, heading South down the Salinas River Valley. This is agriculture and vegetable-growing on a scale I have never seen before. Dole and Constellation Wines have huge operations here, packing and shipping lettuce, celery, cauliflower, tomatoes, broccoli, and of course, grapes and wine. Fog and ocean breezes off Monterey Bay create a cool, Region I climate here, allowing slow, gentle ripening and a long growing season. Approximately 5,000 acres of vinefera are now under cultivation since the first commercial plantings back in 1973 (before that, there had been a history of wine-growing on the back of the Spanish missions), with 46 vineyard properties in total. Pinot Noir and Chardonnay are the predominant varietals in the Appellation. Even on an overcast February day, the valley was spectacular, warm and windy, with vines growing on the elevated terraces of the Santa Lucia mountain range, but with cattle ranches and tree-covered hills climbing up behind them.

Paraiso

My first port of call was Paraiso, perched high above the valley floor, owned and managed by three generations of the Smith family – one of the son-in-laws, David Fleming, is their winemaker. The estate vineyard is the first in the region to be SIP Certified Sustainable and is a large operation, with 460 acres right here on site and some small parcels elsewhere. They make in the region of 20,000 cases p.a.. The smell in the tasting room was a little-off putting, heavy on the aromas from the products on sale in the gift boutique, but Danielle was very welcoming and professional. Switching between the Estate Series and Single Vineyard series tastings was fun. First up was their 2009 Chardonnay, 85% MF, rest in stainless steel, so a little butteriness, but still steely and crisp, nice floral & blossom aromas, apple pie, good quaffing, $18. The 2008 Eagles’ Perch Chardonnay is from a single vineyard high on the property, a wonderful wine, complex on the palate with apple, pear, rounded, full and a long finish, $35. The 2008 Riesling reflects it’s cool climate heritage, dry, Alsatian style, clear and clean, fresh acidity, $16. The 2009 Pinot Noir is a blend of 4 different clones grown on the estate, Burgundian in style, youthful, soft acidity, raspberry and cherry, $25. Showing even better is the 2008 West Terrace Pinot Noir, only 407 cases made, a complex yet delicate wine, very typical of a Santa Lucia Highlands PN apparently, $40. Their 2008 Syrah is sold out, but the 2006 Wedding Hill Syrah is a good Rhone-style, made from the oldest planting of the varietal in the SLH. High quality, dark berry fruit, peppery, great structure and finish, $45. Then a bonus 2009 Irie Zinfandel, made by a cousin of the family down near Paso Robes, with a little Petite Syrah blended to balance the spiciness of this hot Zin, $30, a friendly Zin. I must track their wines down back East, Balducci’s in McLean and Cheesiteque in Del Ray both stock apparently.

Scheid

Next a lovely spot beside the highway South near Greenfield, mid-Salinas Valley, where Dave welcomed me into the small, but perfectly formed, tasting room. I was in luck as some wine members had been in over the weekend and several bonus bottles were open. This is a big operation, they have 5,300 acres planted, and only keep approximately 10% of the yield for their own label, making 10-15,000 cases p.a.. Back when it was founded as a dairy operation making cheese, this was and still is very much a family operation, with several Scheids still on the board. It is all about location, location, location here, with their wines coming for 4 primary growing regions of their 10 estate vineyards – so everything from Pinot Noir and Chardonnay in Region 1, to Petit Verdot, Malbec and Mouvedre in Region 4. This is reflected in the colour of the labels on the bottles – see their website for further explanation! Winemaker Dave Nagengast is able assisted by two assistant winemakers.

Their first vintage was produced in 1972, all from estate-grown vineyards and that continues to this day. We started with a 2008 Isabelle Sparkling Wine, named for the matriach of the family, dry, methode champenoise, elegant and complex, great peach colour, bright fruit, nice acidity, only 200 cases p.a., $45. Then onto a 2009 Sauvignon Blanc, full of zing and life, lively melon fruit, smooth on the palate, good acidity, $18. A bonus 2009 Gewurtztraminer was surprisingly lacking in aroma, may have been opened too long, a little sweetness (1.1% residual sugar), strangely spicy mid-palate, not showing well, $16. Onto their 2009 Chardonnay, smooth, pineapple, fruit-forward, lively on the palate, 8 months sur lie, 38% oak/62% stainless steel, delicious tropical notes, $22. Next up was their 2009 Syrah Rose, dry and refreshing, very light and crisp, strawberries, elegant finish, $16. On to the reds. A 2008 Pinot Noir was bright red coloured, vivid bramble, spice on the mid-palate, lush and full-bodied, good length, $32. Even more elegant was the 2007 Pinot Noir Reserve, selected from their best 15 barrels, silky smooth, long fruit tones, a little spice, medium length, $50. Next a single-clone, single-vineyard bottling, 2008 Pinot Noir Clone 667 Reserve, producing flabbergasting colour, rich ripe fruit, exquisite balance, a glass and a half of deliciousness, $65. I found their 2007 Syrah a little too jam-packed for my taste, it’s a real mouthful and definitely needs food, $22. Likewise, the 2007 Petit Verdot Reserve, Napa Valley, is from the Rutherford AVA, strong and heady, intense, almost astringent, needs to mellow and age, $65. Their 50/50 Syrah/Cabernet Sauvignon blend would be right up Mark’s street, with all the structure and jamminess you’d expect from these varietals, dark plum and vanilla, powerful stuff, $26. Lastly, the 2008 Closing Bell, a port-style wine made with a blend of Portuguese (Tinto Cao & Touriga) and Spanish (Tempranillo & Grenache) grapes, lush and full of black fruit, hint of chocolate, only 100 cases produced, $39. This one will fly off the shelves, get in there early! This is a fun place, I would love to have done one of their tours, but had to make do with a wander through their display gardens, past the demonstration vineyard showing different trellising techniques, with views across to the winery buildings.

Pessagno

Pottering along the River Road back up towards Salinas, I spotted this low-key tasting room and remembered my husband had enjoyed his Pinot Noir from here the previous evening whilst dining at The Fish Hopper in Monterey. The owner’s son, Anthony, welcomed me into the converted milking parlour, a low-ceilinged, long room, made to party in. They sell about 800 cases direct from here, the remaining 1,500 cases via their wine club and local distributors and restaurants. The tasting room is part of the 80+ year old former Swiss-Italian dairy farm that was on the site. An old vinyl record was playing on the turntable, barrels with chairs abound, all in all a convivial place, although I was the only customer that day. 21 years ago, owner Stephen Pessagno “fulfilled his dream to produce limited quantities of luxury wines from single vineyards throughout Monterey and San Benito counties”. We started the tasting with their 2009 Riesling which was dry, crisp, 5 months on French oak, German-style, apricots & honey, good with Asian food with a kick, $16. Then I asked to taste through their single vineyard Pinot Noirs, starting with a 2009 Central Avenue from Monterey, great nose, fruit-forward, strawberry & cherry, earthy finish, 9 months on French oak, $21. Then the 2009 Lucia Highlands Vineyard SLH Pinot Noir, up front berry flavours, good texture, silky tannins, $28. I loved the 2009 Idyll Times Vineyard from San Benito County (from a great-uncle’s lot, planted in 1997) earthy, complex, tingling, packed with flavour, full-bodied to bursting, smooth and mature, $40. Lastly, a 2009 Four Boys Vineyard, named for Stephen’s four sons, their flagship Pinot Noir, $55; absolutely fabulous, huge structure, well-balanced, dark-coloured, jammy, spicy, multi-layered, great finish. Wow. Track these wines down if you can, you would be hard-pressed to find better.

I finished my exploring of the valley with a brief visit to the John Steinbeck National Museum in Salinas, well worth the trip, went a long way to explaining the man and his inspirations. Next door (conveniently) is A Taste of Monterey where up to 45 boutique wineries display their wares – it was about to close, but I resolved to visit their sister operation in Monterey the following day.

I had a 2010 Bernardus Sauvignon Blanc with my supper of prawns and scallops – too fruity and off-dry for my liking, so no need to rush there at least.

Day 8 – still in Napa, from one of the oldest wineries to one of the most modern

Bob cooked the most phenomenal Eggs Benedict with hollandaise the colour of apricot sorbet, utterly divine, the best possible start to the day (this is becoming as much a food blog as a wine blog, I blame the Pepis’ hospitality!).  I sat poolside and wrote up my tasting notes from the day before, enjoying the warmth, sights and sounds coming from the valley floor.

Trefethen

'Barn chic' in the Trefethen tasting room

We made a pretty late start, so only time to visit Trefethen Vineyards in the morning, one of the most southernmost in the Napa valley.  It is housed in an historic redwood building that once was the property of Eshcol winery; apparently the tour is well worth it, but we headed straight inside, past a fabulous 100-year old cork tree growing beside the sun-drenched patio, to the characterful tasting room.

There are 2 differing tastings on offer, and in fact we rather went off-piste in the end!  Dan started by pouring their 2010 Dry Riesling, crisp, dry and floral, with good minerality and grapefruit, $22.  Next was their 2010 Viognier, recently released, only 300 cases produced, too busy and floral for me, but good structure and finish, $30.  Their 2008 Harmony Chardonnay is really quite special, not made every year, but which grows well in this slightly cooler southern end of the valley.  10% malolactic fermentation, buttery, creamy, bright, full-bodied, $50.  Lastly, a 2010 Quandary, a blend of Chardonnay, Riesling & Viognier, $25, needed to be chilled more, OK-ish.

On to their reds.  First up, the 2009 Pinot Noir, strange nose, good chocolate & leather notes, classic peppery finish, $48.  The 2008 Cabernet Franc (85% CF, plus some Petit Verdot & others) was ruby-red, fruit-forward, big in mouth, cherries, good tannins, $38.  The 2008 Malbec had me interested (in fact 98% Malbec, 2% PV), but overly fruity, needs to mellow into its tannins a little and balance the finish, $60.  I found the 2008 Merlot simply too young, too lush, complex to a fault, again it needs time, but has all the attributes to come good in 2-3 years, $35.  The 2008 Dragon’s Tooth (a Malbec/Cabernet Sauvignon blend) @ $75 didn’t quite exude class at that level, lacking balance in the mid-palate.  We all enjoyed the 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon, oozing berry aromas and smoother and rounder than some of their previous offerings, $58, best of the lot.

As a bonus, Dan then poured their 2009 Late Harvest Riesling, lush, botrytis-enhanced, stony fruit, $50 for 375ml.  Delicious!  Lastly one from their wine library, a 2005 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon from a magnum @ $250, even smoother than the 2008, delightfully mellowed out, beautiful structure, good tannins still, great length.  We left on a high, the Trefethen family appear to be doing a great job here in the Oak Knoll AVA.

Palmaz Vineyards

After the most perfect lunch poolside on the valley floor, with salami, cheeses and crostini, plus some of Bob’s Eponymous Rose, a special treat lay in store for the afternoon.  We drove Grid’s Gucci-logoed Fiat Cinquecento right up the top parking level of Palmaz Vineyards, east of Napa in Coombsville, up past the glorious, Italianate main house, to this quite extraordinary, architecturally-stunning building, nestled into the hill.  Flo Palmaz, the owner’s daughter, greeted us and gave us a tour of this James Bond-esque establishment.  The 4-storey cave system extends to 100,000 square foot of underground winery, complete with elevators and its own computerized carousel of giant fermentation tanks.  Freshly

Resembling the set from a Bond movie; the Palmaz winery is based around principles of gravity flow

painted Burgundy-coloured floors belie the fact that this is a working winery, all set back into the hill, drilled using the same mechanism as the Channel Tunnel.  The architect quit after only 6 months, leaving the lead engineer to see the dream of heart-stent pioneer Julio Palmaz’s through to completion.  What a place!  It took 8 years to complete construction at an estimated cost of $8million, and now boasts this huge gravity-flow winery system, complete with an underground water treatment plant and vast cavernous tank room.  A “crazy place” indeed, to coin Flo’s phrase.  Production stands at about 7,000 cases per year, but potential capacity is far higher.  Everything can be controlled via iPad, from opening the tanks and turning them on the carousel, to bringing up vineyard maps on the board room smartboard (that is Flo’s brother, Christian’s speciality).

We ended the staggering tour round a wooden table at ground level, overlooking the house and vineyard, with small bites of gourmet food to accompany the wines.  We started with their 2009 Napa Valley Chardonnay Amalia, named for Flo’s mother, $45, warm, crisp and light, more Burgundy than Napa Valley.  The 2007 Palmaz Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon was wonderful with the crème cheese, fig & chive chiffonade, 22 months on French oak, smooth and tannis, great elegance and less sheer power than its Napa neighbours, $120.  The 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon was a similar treat, $120, superb length and complexity and delicious with Flo’s new recipe Doigts de Coco!  We were lucky to taste the 2010 Muscat Canelli “Florencia”, named for Flo, @ $45 for 500ml.  This is wonderfully aromatic, mango, floral, rose, lush with great length.  And if you’re lucky, you might be able to taste her son Nico’s non-alcoholic Muscat Grape Juice, Vino de Nico, $10 for 375ml, reminiscent of days gone by, something to keep the children sweet certainly. All in, an extraordinary way to finish our visit to the Napa Valley, all concrete and stainless steel, far-removed from the oak and redwood interiors elsewhere.  You must book ahead to do the tour here, but I heartily recommend it, as it is likely to be one of the Palmaz family who takes you round and it is impossible not to be caught up in their enthusiasm and vision for this place.  Quite what Henry Hagen, of the original Cedar Knoll Winery that he founded here in 1881, would make of it, who knows, but go take a look for yourself.  You will be amazed.

Day 7 – Napa Valley – Stag’s leap, Honig, Burgess and the Napa Wine Company

What a stunning place this is!  I woke early and sat outside our poolhouse bedroom as the sun came up over the hill to the East.  Sounds of cows, birds and far-distant trucks echoed round and about.  The three resident dogs, Oscar, Toby and Luigi pottered over to say hello.

Stag’s Leap Vineyards (aka S.L.V)

Mark was in charge of choosing our winery destinations today, so we started large at Stag’s Leap, getting there just as the first punters were flooding in.  A Friday, but evidently a popular place.  There wasn’t much room at the tasting bar, so we stood by a barrel top and someone poured our 4 wines from the Estate Collection tasting flight, $30, only available here or via the wine club.  The winery has 98 acres making 5,000 cases of these high-end wines.  First up was their 2008 Arcadia Vineyard Chardonnay, all Burgundian in style, 9 months on oak, fresh, citrus, apple, good long finish. $50.  Then three Cabernet Sauvignons, all single-designate vineyards.  The 2008 Fay spent 18 months on oak, so good plum and cassis on the nose, earthy spiciness on the palate, but a strange astringent finish, $95.  The 2008 S.L.V. was also fruit-forward, 2 years on oak, great colour but that same stark, short finish, $125.  Their final pouring was the 2008 Cask 23, deep colour, black cherry, dark chocolate, with peppery notes, a cleaner finish than the previous two, but punishing, especially @ $195.  Note to self: go try their second label, Hawk Crest (100,000 cases p.a.), which is widely distributed, or their Napa Valley collection   These weren’t for us, which was strangely disappointing.

Honig Winery

We drove across from the Silverado Trail towards Oakville, and arrived at Honig on the valley floor in Rutherford.  Casey, our pourer, was an easy-going young enthusiast for their wines, explaining that we could take our tasting outside onto the sun-drenched patio.  Their first vintage was made back in 1980, on a 70 acre ranch, 50+ planted to vine.  Winemaker Kristen Belair is ably assisted by Brett Adams, making wine from Sauvignon Blanc, Cabernet Sauvignon, but also Semillon and Muscat grapes.  The loamy soil needs only partial irrigation, and is farmed sustainably.

First of four wines was the 2010 Honig Reserve Sauvignon Blanc Rutherford @ $25, 2,000 cases made.  This was pale yellow, with good crisp minerality, floral notes and a good finish,  Next up was their 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon, a blend of 92% CS, plus the remainder made up from Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc, aged in American oak, $40.  Dark red fruit, top toasty notes, cherry and plum, balanced, good tannins, smooth.  The 2006 100% Cabernet Sauvignon Campbell Vineyard from a single 10-acre site was too hot, short and astringent for me, dusty almost.  $75.  A luscious finale came in the shape of their 2009 Late Harvest Sauvignon Blanc, $55, Sauternes-style, 6 months on lees, partially fermented on French oak.  25% residual sugar, 12% ABV.  Delicious, sweet, almost cloying, syrupy smooth.  Perhaps this would be better with some blue cheese or a cheesecake, delicious but too lush for my taste.

Burgess

We grabbed a picnic from a deli in St Helena (remember the raw quail eggs!) and headed up Deer Mountain Road Eastout of the valley.  We had time to lounge in the sunshine before our 2.30 appointment at Burgess, high up above the valley overlooking a reservoir and the Napa river.  Jacqueline greeted us into the cellar where the tasting bar is set up, and we were the only ones there.  She explained the history of the property from its beginnings in the 1880s to Tom Burgess purchasing the land in the late 60s.  He and winemaker Bill Sorenson have been working together here ever since, making 15,000 cases off 115 acres over 3 sites.  Tom is semi-retired now, but his son Steve is getting involved more and more with production and blending.  Their 3 growing sites are spread across Napa – one here in this beautiful Swiss/Italian-feeling farm, volcanic soil, Cab, Petite Syrah, Cab Franc; one the other side of Howell Mountain, an old river bed, Syrah; and the third down near Yountville, organic, alluvial, Merlot & Grenache.

We started with their 2008 Grenache, brilliant purple, fresh raspberry jam, spice and clove, fabulous finish, $25.  2007 Syrah was Rhone in style, pronounced, oaky, smoky, 40% French/60% American oak, red fruit, $28.  2007 Merlot was packed with black cherry, with a hint of mint, round and full, $28.  Their flagship 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon is newly released, toasty, spicy, vanilla, $38, good.  Next a release from their library of wines, a 1998 Cabernet Sauvignon, $68, so good we had to buy a bottle.  European in style, plum, strawberry, earthy, full, utterly delicious.  This was the Cabernet Sauvignon we had been hoping for, and perhaps we just like ours a little maturer.  Last up was a big 2007 Estate Vineyards Reserve Bordeaux Blend, $80, a really big, complex wine, spicy, rich, gorgeous length.  This is a delightful winery to visit, settled into its hillside and very comfortable in its own skin.  Sometimes going off the beaten track reaps rewards, and this certainly did in spades.

Barrel tasting with winemaker and owner of 'Eponymous', Bob Pepi

Napa Valley Wine Company

Eponymous wine maturing on French oak in readiness for blending and bottling

We beetled back down the valley towards Oakville to meet Bob Pepi, our university chum’s husband, at this bonded warehouse that offers custom crush-facilities.  In continuous operation since 1877, under several different identities (Inglenook has its winery here once), it now also houses a tasting room displaying 24 small wineries’ produce on a rotating basis.  Situated adjacent to Opus One, this is a great spot to attract passing punters, and I can see exactly why Bob markets his wines here.  The staff were professional and friendly, with great indepth knowledge of each wine they poured.  But before we got into the wines, Bob took us of a tour of the facility itself, where the whole process from grapes arriving into the sorters and crushers, to the bottling and new screw-top processing machinery.  It was a fascinating glimpse into the front line of wine making, and Bob was good enough to finish with a barrel-tasting of his 2011 Merlot, Cab Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc – I hadn’t done this in a long, long time, so fun to be up close and personal with such young, fruity wines.  We then retired to the tasting room to try Bob’s Eponymous wines, but we were having so much fun, I failed to take any notes!  Suffice to say, these are well-made, beautifully balanced, complex offerings – and a bottle of his Cabernet Sauvignon went down extremely well over supper later down in Napa at L’Angele with my meal of veal sweetbreads and pork cheeks.

This had proved a fascinating, rewarding day – the people involved in wine-making here are happy farmers and master blenders, its an art form needing dedication and creativity.

Day 6 – Yorkville Highlands to Napa via Meyer Family Vineyards, Hawkes, Robert Young and Van Der Heyden

Meyer Family Vineyards

Fabulous blue sky when we woke, so up and at it early to make the most of the day.  Breakfast as before in Boonville, then we headed South down the valley and over the top into the Yorkville valley.  It was a pretty drive, lingering mist on the tops, cows and goats, old barns and teeming with trees.  Meyer Family Vineyard had just opened for the day when we arrived – this is a very family-friendly place, with slides, swings and lawns to play on.  Which isn’t surprising when you realise that Matt Meyer and his Australian wife have three youngsters under 5, so they are happy to appeal to visiting family groups.  Molly Sutherland welcomed us into the tasting room where she poured four wines (and a few extras).  Matt wandered in and was happy to chat to Mark whilst Molly and I exchanged information.  We started with a Chardonnay which was crisp and dry, with good finish.  Then onto two Cabernet Sauvignons We finished with aZinfandelPortwhich was not to our taste, but has its loyal following.

Hawkes Winery, Alexander Valley

Alexander Valleywas next on the agenda, a gorgeous drive, past fruit orchards, small wooden barns, horses, cows and huge sheep.  I am really glad we pushed up this far North, the countryside is stunning and gives a suggestion of howSonoma&Napamight have been before vines pushed out prunes & peaches.  We drove through Cloverdale and had hoped to visit Wattle Creek Winery, but couldn’t get a reply so had to presume the owners were back in their nativeAustralia.  So we pushed on to Hawkes next to Jimtown Store, East of Healdsburg.  This was a tiny outfit, but perfectly formed, with really well produced literature and flyers, nice red hawk logo.  The lovely Alex welcomed us in and was one of the best pourers we’d met so far, enthusiastic, informative, fun and happy to spend time over their delicious wines.

Jake Hawkes is the winemaker now, but he and his father Steven have been growing grapes in this area for 40 years, only bottling under their own label since 2002.  They make c. 3,500 cases per year from the 10% of the yield that they keep from their 85 acres of primeAlexanderValleylots called Red Winery, Stone & Pyramid – the rest of the grapes go to other producers in the area, e.g. Silver Oak.  These vineyards are planted with 8 acres of Chardonnay, 18 Merlot & 54 Cabernet Sauvignon.  These wines were quite exceptional, all single varietals, no blending here.  We started with a 2009 Home Chardonnay, only 326 cases produced, made in a unique house-style, clean, crisp, dry, Hungarian oak, no malolactic, so noticeable minerality, yet smooth and pure, $20.

Then onto the reds, starting with their 2007 Alexander Valley Merlot from the Red Winery ranch.  This was a big wine that really packed a punch and would age beautifully given its dark fruit, tannin and good acidity.  This is aged on 100% new French oak, 14.1% ABV, built to last.  $35 per bottle, only 480 cases produced.  Next up was their 2007 Alexander Valley Cabernet Sauvignon, yields were down this year, so only 650 rather than the average 1,000 cases made, a combination of fruit from all three of their vineyards.  This is big, yet balanced, smooth, black fruit, great tannins, will continue to improve, $50.  Lastly, a real treat, a single vineyard Cabernet from their Pyramid lot, 2007, $65, purple black, floral notes, plumy, old gentleman’s club, leather & smoke.  Huge potential, needs time to balance lean tannins, a wonderful finale.  Both Mark and I were sorely tempted to join their Wine Club and probably will, for this is a small producer with a great future.

Robert Young Estate Winery

Next stop, and recommended by Alex although we had called ahead to request a winery tour, was Robert Young Estate Winery, a wiggle away round many immaculate vineyards on the valley floor.  This 500-acre ranch has been in the same family for 4 generations and sits majestically on a small brow overlooking its own vineyards, a pleasing, low, white colonial-style house with a big white barn alongside where the tasting room is located.  Jeff and Tina kindly waited whilst we finished our picnic on a little wrought-iron table under the olive grove.  They started the tasting by explaining that all their wines (12 varietals in total, including Melon & Malbec) are 100% estate-grown, produced and bottled right here on the ranch.  What an enviable position to be in!  They have a long-established contract to grow Chateau St Jean’s grapes, so 95% of the yield from their 317 planted acres goes there, plus a few other local wineries (including Clos du Bois, Simi, Franciscan).  Which leaves Kevin Warren, the winemaker here since 2000, with grapes to make about 6,000 cases p.a.  Again, these were top examples ofAlexanderValley’s reputation.  We parallel-tasted the 2008 Alexander Valley Chardonnay with the 2009, the first complex and nutty, 14 months on 40% new French oak, vanilla & butterscotch, long finish, $40.  The 2009 was more tropical, aromatic and full, yet still dry. $42.  Then onto two more Chardonnay, a 2009 Area 27 Chardonnay aged in neutral French oak, no malolactic, crisp and dry, light acidity, tiny production – 4 barrels off this unique lot of 5 acres.  $44.  Then a huge Chardonnay to finish, their 2009 Barrel Select, aged in 100% new French oak for 14 months, vanilla and almost honeyed notes, yoghurt and cream, luscious and rich, $49.  Not my particular favourite, but I bet my hat it has a big fan club.

Next up, the reds.  First the Merlots, parallel-tasting their 2007 and 2008 Alexander Valley.  The first was fabulous on the nose, chocolate and raspberry, rounded and big in the mouth, lovely tannin and length.  4% Petit Verdot & 3% Cabernet Sauvignon give it a roundness and structure that reflects in its $50 price tag.  The 2008 was my husband’s idea of class in a glass, massive black fruit, deep colour, cassis, again a little Petit Verdot, great tannins, $52.  Tina then poured their 100% 2008 Petit Verdot which I simply loved – inky purple, big in flavour and tannin, quite a discovery, it went on and on, chocolate and bramble, $56.  The 2008 Big Rock Block Cabernet Franc, again 100% single varietal, was a little less successful for me, good on the nose with strawberry, but a little too peppery and rough in the finish.  $58.  Last, but not least, their 2007 Scion Cabernet Sauvignon which is their flagship wine, found on many top-notch restaurant’s lists, even over on the East Coast.   This was a fabulous wine, berry & plum forward, soft tannin, smooth acidity, with a lasting toastiness; a little Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot in the mix too.   Extremely good, $58.  Tina then kindly took us through the winery itself, including an intriguing egg-shaped concrete fermentation vessel that they have just used for their Chardonnay for the very first time – apparently it is a size and shape that has been used for years inFrance, so Kevin Warren is experimenting with it and waiting on the outcome with interest.  She then led us into the caves, and as she opened the big wooden doors, that amazing aroma of barrel-fermenting wines hit us, a heady mix of oak and age.  The caves stretch quite some way back into the hill, down dimly lit passages, past brooding oak barrels, all immaculately labeled and dated.  This is most definitely one of our favourite places, it just has a gentle, mellow air about it, comfortable in its skin and in the knowledge that its wine are of a quality to keep Alexander Valley firmly on the map for years to come.

Van Der Heyden

Van Der Heyden: no gloss, just unique wine

We had spent longer than anticipated here (happily!), so we headed down Knight’s Valley, past all Beringer’s vineyards, and over the top into Calistoga.  This town has a Wild West air, with wooden posts running along all the shop exteriors, ready for tying up your horse, should you happen to have one.  We turned South down the Silverado Trail, pass Mumm Napa, Sterling, through Rutherford and Oakville, stopping for one last tasting of the day at a small, ramshackle place called van der Heyden.  This was a quaint, unique experience – as the sun was setting, we made our way past barrels and flat-beds into the tiny tasting shack, met Andre the winemaker, and realised we had stumbled upon a Napa treasure-trove if you like late-bottled Cabernet Sauvignon or Syrah!  Andre has been here since the 1970s and is a passionate advocate of this style or wine, and at $135 for a LB Semillon, there must be plenty of people who enjoy it, and why not?  We spent a very entertaining 20 minutes in his company before making our way over the top, East of Napa, to our friend’s house up overlooking the valley.  This was an oasis of calm and beauty, so a fun evening was had catching up on news and chat before retiring to the pool house for the night.

Day 4 – Russian River and Dry Creek Valley to Boonville

Balletto Winery

We left Sonoma on a grey and foggy morning, heading North West towards Santa Rosa along the back roads through Glen Ellen.  The road twisted and turned before flattening out onto the valley floor.  First stop was Balletto Winery in the Russian River area.  Chad greeted us into the tasting room which was small and intimate.  He explained a little of the history of the ranch, originally growing plums, prunes and peaches before owners John & Teresa Balletto diversified into vines back in 1995.  Their first vintage was 2001 and the tasting room opened in 2006.  Of the 600 acres under vine, only 10% of the 10,000 case p.a. production is kept for estate wines, the rest goes to other producers, including Domain Carneros.  We started the tasting with a 2009 Pinot Gris which had unbelievable citrus fruit and flavour, forward and lush, slight yeastiness, buttery, clean, steel-fermented, but ripe and rich @ $12.80 on sale.  We moved onto their 2010 Teresa’s Chardonnay, green apple, soft and gentle, crisp and tart.  Only 992 cases were made @ $20 per bottle.  The 2009 Gewurtztraminer was a treat – fabulous floral & tropical fruit aromas on the nose, though a slightly flabby follow-through, redemmed by well balanced tannins and a long finish.  This wine is crying out for food to accompany it, I would just love to try it with our next Thai Green Curry  On to the reds – a 2010 Estate Pinot Noir was a light and interesting blend of 5 vineyards, cherry, toast, complex, clove profile.  A great Pinot, $28.  The 2009 Winery Block Pinot Noir was even better, with good mushroom and cherry aromas, forest floor, better length and a great finish – this wine will run and run for some years to come.  $34.  The 2007 Zinfandel was all berry fruit forward, mellowing to clove and vanilla, not too jammy, soft, 13.9% ABV, on sale @ $16.80.  We finished the tasting with a 2008 Syrah, great deep colour, soft tannins, oak and smoked bacon, peppery, easy-going, likeable wine.  Only 205 cases were produced, $29 per bottle.  A great place to visit, heartily recommend you stop by here for affordable, quality Pinots.

Lynmar Estate

Next stop was Lynmar Estate near the tiny, picturesque town of Graton.  The setting was spectacular, rolling vine-clad hills and a long vista down to Santa Rosa Laguna.  The tasting room building was all chrome and wood, with floor-length windows revealing the vineyards surrounding it.  Peter, a world-class solo tenor when he’s not pouring wines, introduced us to their 2010 Laguna Ridge Chardonnay which was an incredible gold straw colour, big pear & apple on the nose, good acidity, lush and rich. 40% French oak used, 50% malolactic fermentation.  What an opener, and only $20!  He then back-tracked to explain that  owner Lynn Fritz inherited some vines when he first bought the property back in 1980, but winemaking only began in earnest in 1990, producing small amounts of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.  These are the varietals he has stuck with, and now he has 70 acres of estate vineyards, including Quail Hill and Susanna’s, with 15 PN clones, 4 Chardonnay and 1 block of Syrah.  Terroir, climate and sustainability are all important here.  The garden is a peaceful haven of herbs and colourful kales and cabbages, even in January.   Winemaker Bibiana Gonzalez Rave, Colombian by birth, is passionate about achieving perfection in each and every bottle.  And it certainly shows.  The three Pinot Noirs we tasted were exquisite examples of the 12 they produce.  The 2008 Russian River @ $40 is a big wine, with balanced cherry and blackberry fruit, mint and vanilla, and silky tannins.  Next came the 2008 Freestone Cuvee @ $50, black fruit, plummy, acid and tannins in balance, will age.  The 2008 Terra de Promissio comes from coastal vines in the Petalumya, massive deep garnet colour, grippy tannins, dark fruit, Burgundian in style, long and divine, will cellar for 5+ years. $70.  Truly a cut above the normal and a fabulous example of how terroir and passion succeed.

Mazzocco

We then headed North across the Russian River into Dry Creek for a lovely picnic alongside a field of mustard with views across vineyards and back down to the river.  A twisting road took us along the west side, past several wineries, but we were headed for Mazzocco and their famed Zinfandels.  This is not a varietal I am particularly familiar with, so I wanted to parallel taste some well-made examples to form an opinion for myself.  Joe Vaughan welcomed us into the state-of-the-art tasting room and poured the first of 8 Zins.  The problem was, he was so busy extolling their virtues as Double Gold Medal winners at the recent San Francisco Chronicle tasting that we were quite unable to form our own version of the truth.  Each bottle is vineyard-designate, with a small % of Petite Syrah in each blend.  The Estate covers 500 acres, was first planted with vines in 1988 and is part of the Wilson empire whose labels include Wilson, SodaRock, Matrix, de Lorimier & Jaxon Keys.  This is big production stuff, but Mazzocco, bought from Dr Mazzocco in 1995, is concentrating on Zins.  Antoine Favaro is their winemaker, ex-GunBun and Sebastiani, originally from the Champagne area of France.  Owner Diane Wilson is also a winemaker, but not here.   All the wines showed flair, well-made, the 2009 Sullivan was softer and lighter than most of the others, 2009 Warm Springs Ranch too dry and tannic for me.   We found the tasting confusing and rushed, with little real explanation of the ethos and passion behind each bottle.  But if they are winning prizes, and perhaps that is what matters when you’re selling on this scale, then good luck to them.

Sbragia

We needed our faith restored in Dry Creek Valley, so continued Northwards to seek inspiration.  The Valley is stunning, all rolling hills, small wineries dotted about, small shacks and wooden barns, grazing horses and acre after acre of vines.  Only 30 years ago, this was a prize prune-growing area, sending fresh fruit into San Francisco by train and truck.  Intrigued by the fact that their winemaker is ex-Beringer, we headed to Sbragia Family Vineyards at the head of the valley, right up by the dam across Sonoma Lake.  The first vintage made here by Ed Sbragia was in 2005, although vines have been here since 1880, and his father and grandfather were grape-growers.  They make 8-9,000 cases per annum, all from their own grapes, some from the family ranch near Healdsburg, plus more from lots throughout Sonoma & Napa County from coast to Carneros.  We started with the whites, a 2011 Dry Creek Valley Sauvignon Blanc @ $20.  Citrus & apple, grapefruit, floral and lively with a slight spritz which will probably mellow with age. Newly released, this is young, but its acidity will see it good.  Next a 2009 Schmidt (Ed’s high school friend’s place) Ranch Sauvignon Blanc, which had crispness and depth, more minerality, bright.  Next a 2008 Gamble Ranch Chardonnay made with grapes from the Beringer estate over in the  Napa Valley, 18 months on French oak, luscious, apple, lush.  Sally our lovely pourer then squeezed in a 2008 Home Ranch Chardonnay, on sale at $20 for 3 bottles, this is everyday, cheerful, floral, apple, 50/50 old/new oak, softer.  Then we started on the reds, and there was no stopping us.  2009 Gino’s Vineyard Zinfandel was full of intense black fruit, dried cherries and a peppery finish.  This is his everyday red, made for drinking with pasta, with a small % of Carignan and Petit Syrah in the blend.  Next a 2009 Andolsen Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon, named for the family’s GP, 19 months on new French oak, deep purple in colour, big black cassis, herbal, great finish, $38.  4 more Cab Sauvs were to follow, each produced from grapes grown at a higher elevation to the one preceding it, each containing a small, average 4% Cabernet Franc.  So the 2007 Monte Rosso Cab from mid-Sonoma Valley was intense and spicy; the 2007 Rancho del Oso from Napa full of power, cherries and berries, 94 by Robert Parker.  The 2007 Cimarossa from Howell Mountain, Napa was our absolute favourite, truly a great wine, with the wow factor that would keep you coming back for more, even @ $75 per bottle.  Well-structured, it is packed with dark fruits and exotic spices, truly good tannins and a long finish.  By the time we got to 2006 Wall Vineyard way up on Mount Veeder, Napa were couldn’t take any more, this was too oaky and tannic for me, it truly packed a punch, definitely needs food.  As a bonus, Sally kindly uncorked a 2007 Merlot which at $30 reminded us of the Beringer Merlot we know and love.  With 5% Cabernet Franc, 95 % Merlot, this is heaven in a glass, affordable, great colour, rounded with a great finish.

We loved this place – did it show?!  We arrived at 4pm just as the sun was dipping in the sky, and left long after the tasting room was closed for the day, having met Ed and his wife Peggy and talked long into the early evening on many far-ranging subjects.   Which meant that our drive North to Boonville was entirely made in the dark, thus missing out on the stunning scenery that loomed darkly around us.  Oh well, there’s always tomorrow.  The Boonville Hotel was a welcome sight, and a quick supper across the road in Lauren’s gave us the chance to mull over an incredible day in a whole new area.  Mendocino and the Anderson Valley, here we come.

Day 5 – Mendocino County & the Anderson Valley – Brutocao, Navarro and Toulouse

Brutocao

Our mission today was to find the perfect Pinot Noir, but I was also keen to try this beautiful area’s Alsatian varietals.  Sadly, we were missing their Alsace Festival of Wine by only 2 weeks, that sounded like a lot of fun.  Mark’s priority was a good breakfast, so we made a pit-stop at The Redwood Cafe in Boonville to fill up, a good choice.  As we headed North up this glorious valley, our first stop, purely because they opened earlier than the others, was Brutocao, right off the 128.  We were the only ones there and were warmly welcomed by Videlle, our pourer.  She explained the Lion of St Mark on their label, the family’s Italian origins and their history in the valley which dates back to the late 1940s when grandfather Irv Bliss bought the ranch.  Still family owned and operated, they now have  11 acres of Pinot Noirs growing right on the doorstep here, otherwise all their grape-growing is done in the next door valley on 450 acres at Hopland.  Their first vintage was bottled in 1980 under the Brutocao label and production is now up to 15,000 cases p.a.  Their second label, named for their grandfather Bliss, is widely distributed across the States.  So not entirely a local, homegrown experience, but pretty near it.
This was a fun and enjoyable tasting of good, well-made, if not exceptional, wines.  The 2007 Reserve Pinot Noir Anderson Valley @ $38 was bright cherry red, with spicy tones, good tannins, smooth and elegant.  35% on new French oak for 14 months, this gives the winemakers of Burgundy a run for their money.  The 2008 Pinot Noir was adequate, but overly smokey, largely due to the forest fires that swept across the mountain tops here and imparted their smoke on the entire harvest.  Hard to get round.  Some of the Italian single varietals were interesting: a 2009 Sangiovese was light garnet, bright strawberry notes, balanced acidity, mild tannins, 14.5%, $22, 150 cases produced;  2009 Barbera Feliz Vineyard was plummy, earthy, big, a great mouthful @ $22, only 200 cases made.  Favourite was the 2008 Uber Tuscan, Estate Bottled, a good honest blend of 59% Sangiovese, 41% Cabernet Sauvignon – complex, red fruit, great length, $24.  Their 2007 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon Estate Bottled was excellent, deep purple, pronounced sweet oak, complex cedar and blackberry notes, $36.  I didn’t go a bundle on their dessert wines, but imagine the Zinfandel Port has its fans.  A pretty spot to start our Anderson Valley tastings, but I wanted more in my glass, so on we went.

Navarro

Now we’re talking!  This is small, family-owned and operated, with 90% of their production sold directly either from the premises or via their wine club.  Despite the early morning rain and mist, this was a glorious spot, with calendula striping the rows of vines and cows grazing on the hills above the vineyard.  I really love the range of trees hereabouts – madrone, buck-eye, redwood, eucalyptus, poplar, all stark and bare at this time of year, but providing a dramatic backdrop to the valley.  The climate of Philo is cool and rugged, with early morning fog and coastal ocean breezes the norm.  Christopher was our pourer, what a great advocate for the winery he proved to be.  He explained how they use a chicken tractor to graze the rows, plus flocks of Babydoll sheep.  Sustainability is key to success here.  Jim Klein makes the wine, ably assisted by the whole team at Navarro – each wine is clearly a group effort.  Production is up to 40,000 cases p.a., with 25% of grapes produced right here on 90 acres of gravelly loam.   The family are all hands-on – Ted Bennett and Deborah Cahn started planting vines here back in the 1970s and have now been joined by son Aaron and daughter Sarah.  There is no tasting fee and the atmosphere in the tasting room was friendly and relaxed.  Christopher explained that methods of production here are a bit different – the oak they use to age the wine comes in the usual 60-gallon barrel size, but also 120-gallon puncheons AND ovals, over a 1,000 gallons – they use stainless steel tanks too.  Pick up a copy of their Newsletter, it makes great reading and provides loads of information about what goes down here.

We started our tasting with their 2009 Chardonnay, on French oak for 8-10 months, delicious butteriness, baked apple, warm and full, $25.  Then their 2010 Sauvignon Blanc, pale to colourless in the glass, toasty, yeasty notes, then lemon & citrus zing, $18.  The 2010 Pinot Gris was nutty and biscuity goodness in the glass, delicious, $19.  Next was a 2009 Gewurtztraminer, beautiful lychee on the nose, crisp & dry in the mouth, kiwi, not what I was expecting, divine, $19.  On to their 2010 Riesling, 1% residual sugar, exceptional, pear aroma, dry finish, $18.  A sip of their 2010 Edelzwicker was a surprise, made from Pinot Gris, Muscat, Gewurtztraminer & Riesling blend, 1.5% residual sugar, good with a Thai curry, bargain @ $13.  What a cracking selection of whites, incredible value, superb quality.  And we hadn’t even started on the reds.  Their 2009 Pinot Noir from grapes grown in Mendocino County was exceptional, near-perfect balance of fruit and acidity, $19!  This place works on so many levels, not least their wines, but also the family’s ethos and emphasis on the importance of the whole team getting behind a particular vintage.  Who could resist the Navarro call, we were certainly swept up in it.

Chris recommended we visit Toulouse Winery just up the road, but first we did a side-tour to the coast and Mendocino.  We drove through Navarro Redwood State Park, with these majestic trees soaring up on both sides of the road, hemming us in to the reddish gloom.  When you emerge at the coast, the mist had cleared and the Pacific looked calm.  Mendocino is a place that time has forgotten about, it has an aura of ageing hippiedom, a gentle spot appealing to life’s more easy-going folk.  We had a great lunch in an Irish pub, Patterson’s, then wandered around town and into the Ford House Museum which gave a glimpse into life here when the lumber mills were in full swing.  A little bit dilapidated, a touch of Victoriana, it would be a nice place to hole up and escape from the rigours of daily life.

Toulouse

Back on the winery trail, we retraced our steps towards Philo where Vern Boltz is handcrafting amazing wines.  He and wife Maxine retired to this 160-acre site and planted 17 acres of Pinot Noir back in 1997.  Their first vintage was 2002 and was the SanFranChron’s favourite Pinot Noir from Mendocino County that same year.  Toulouse has not looked back since.  The tasting room is right inside their winery, although there is a new one being built alongside.  Stainless steel tanks were lined up outside the building, with a small stepladder propped up against one of them.  Vern had apparently been tasting that day prior to bottling his 2010 whites ready for the upcoming Alsace Varietal Festival.  This place has a very welcoming and relaxed atmosphere – we were warmly greeted by Kathy & Rita, the assistant wine-maker, despite arriving only 40 minutes before closing.  They didn’t seem to mind in the slightest, and in fact we were still chatting at half-past five when others would have shooed us out.  The Toulouse goose logo is everywhere, Tess the lab might amble over to say hello, there is a parrot in a cage in the middle of the cave – definitely a spot with character and a sense of fun.  Pinot Noir is their passion, but they are also producing good Alsace varietals made from grapes purchased from other Anderson Valley growers.  Production is up to 5,000 cases p.a., but Vern would like to increase that to 8,000 p.a..  We started with a 2010 Pinot Gris, zingy, apricot, pear, zesty, fresh, dry, good acidity, $24.  Sadly their Gewurtztraminer is sold out, but the 2010 Rose of Pinot Noir was a total surprise, packed with strawberry notes, dry, only 450 cases made, $24.  Four reds followed.  First up, their 2008 Anderson Valley Pinot Noir, full-bodied, lush, cinnamon, smoky, ripe cherries, $42.  The 2008 Estate Pinot Noir is even bigger, with dark fruit, very complex, aged in French & Hungarian oak for 18 months, $50.   I loved the 2009 Anderson Valley Pinot Noir, huge cherry fruit, bramble, delicious, $42.  Lastly, the 2008 Lautrec Pinot Noir, dark ruby, tart, dill on the nose (they used an Australian technique, reverse osmosis, to try to get the smoke out of the skins & juice left from the forest fires that had raged that summer), but a deep earthiness remains – definitely a BBQ quaffer @ $26.  You will like this place, it’s small yet full of character, and Kathy looked after us superbly.  Size is not everything.

Day 3 in Sonoma Valley – Ledson, Loxton, Landmark, GunBun and Nicholson Ranch

Ledson: mock-gothic and different

Ledson

Today J & K had to head back home, so Mark and I set off à deux up the valley.  First stop was Ledson, a vast stark building just East of the highway, built 12 years ago, reached via a driveway winding up through newly planted Merlot and Petit Verdot.  We couldn’t work out the architectural inspiration – the bricks and roof tiles have a strange purple hue and it is mock-Gothic in style.  The interior is all oak floor and paneling – intriguing.  Anyway, we entered the tasting room to be greeted by Ali who was a very competent pourer.  Capacity is about 15,000 cases per annum, but Steve Ledson (the 5th generation owner, yet first to sell his wines to market) has vineyards all across the area, so the grapes that make Ledson wine are all his, but from lots of different lots.  He makes about 80 different wines each year, 80!  That’s 18 Zins alone.  The wines are sold only from the  Chateau or via the wine club and are made in their winery off-site in Sonoma itself.

We started with a 2009 Russian River Valley Riesling Dry, our first in California, lemon, crisp, clear and clean.  Their 2008 Russian River Pinot Noir Reserve was very good, nice long tannic finish, with herbal & pepper notes, a beautiful wine.  A 2006 Dry Creek Valley Old Vine Zinfandel was powerful, blackberry nose, oaky, dry, long finish.  Intrigued, we requested the 2007 Contra Costa Mourvedre, made from grapes grown 2 hours South of here, but it was too big and stark, lacking roundness – needs food.  A couple of Merlots followed, the first a 2006 Sonoma Valley Estate Merlot Reserve which was flabby despite 13% Cab Sauv, rather lacklustre (they no longer have these vines, this lot was ripped up after this vintage); the second a classic, their 2007 Knights Valley Merlot, long and smooth.  We didn’t much care for the 2004 Lake County Diamond Ridge Cabernet France, but this is a tricky varietal to bear scrutiny when standing alone.  We loved the 2007 Knights Valley Cabernet Sauvignon on the other hand, tobacco, hefty, tannin, wonderful cherry fruit.  Then onto two Rhone varietals, first their 2006 Lake County Diamond Ridge Petite Syrah which didn’t work, too light and rough, then a 2007 Sonoma Valley Estate Syrah which was divine, garnet hued and hefty.  Ali knew her stuff and we came away amazed that one place can produce so many hits, despite a couple of misses.

Loxton Winery

..says it all

Chris Loxton was very happy to explain his craft

At the other end of the production scale is Loxton Winery, just a couple of miles back down Highway 12.  Chris Loxton hails from Australia but has made California his home and he is a man of integrity and passion when it comes to crafting grapes into wine.  This is wine-making on a perfect, tiny scale, annual production averages 3,000 cases.  His Zins and Syrahs are legendary, as is the port.   His tasting assistant was a delight – she poured us 5 wines, starting with a 2009 Chardonnay from Parmelee-Hill, Sonoma Valley, which was oh-so-well-made, clean, crisp, buttery AND citrus.  Only 168 cases made, $28.  Then his delicious plonk, Sonoma Reds – Lot 5, $16, smooth, easy-drinking, sling another steak on the barbie-style, nice acidity, round, good tannin.  We loved the 2008 Zinfandel Hillside Vineyard, 100% Zin, but different, dark bramble fruit, not overly oaked or alcoholic, just good.  Next a 2008 Syrah Parmelee-Hill, smoky, big red cherry fruit, long finish – we liked it so much we bought a bottle to go with our picnic. And lastly two stickies, a 2009 Late Harvest Zinfandel, light, fresh, 16% alcohol, but the surefire winner was the 2009 Port, luscious and utterly delicious, very sweet, will age nicely.  Chris then appeared and we spent a very happy hour extolling the virtues of hand-crafted wine, physics, lab notes, leaking barrels, French ethics and law, etc. etc.  What a great place, what a passionate advocate of all that is good in the world of wine.

The Landmark tasting room

Landmark Winery

He recommended we retrace our steps to Landmark, but it was a strange place.  No-one else there, a perfectly cheery pourer, decent wines, but nothing really stood out.  We tasted 4 wines, then a couple of bonus wines, a Grenache (not correct) and a 2009 Steel Plow Syrah which worked, but somehow it was not a tasting that inspired or uplifted us.  So instead we had a game of bocce ball in the beautiful garden and moved on.  Maybe it’s something to do with the fact that they’ve recently been bought out by Justin (who also own Fiji water, which is pressed upon you at every opportunity) – are they trying to sell wine or water here?  It lacked conviction or feel.  disappointing.

The 'Gun Bun' tasting room was delightful

Gundlach Bundschu

Next stop was Gundlach Bundschu right back down South of Sonoma which has been producing wine since 1858, so one of the oldest.  Annual production is c. 25-30,000 cases, with all the grapes grown on the 320 acre site below Arrowhead Mountain – as the sun dipped in the sky, this was a magical spot.  The stunning tasting room, the oldest, stone-built building on the property, was about to close, so kindly Marina sped us through 6 wines, although sadly the Gewurtztraminer wasn’t available.  2009 Chardonnay was clean, crisp and the best of the day.  A 2009 Pinot Noir came up complex and large, big cherry fruit, long finish.  Their 2009 Tempranillo was intense, purple, vibrant and lush $37.  2008 Syrah delicious, and a much better 2009 Cabernet Franc, which restored my faith in this single varietal – lovely rich texture and fruit.  Lastly, their 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon which was choccy, concentrated and lush, loads of cassis.  $40.  I wish we had been able to spend longer here, it was a magical winery, tucked right up under the hill, dreamy long light.  We did walk up the hill behind to admire the view, but couldn’t linger.  A happy place, go there.

Nicholson Ranch

Marina’s top tip was to continue to Nicholson Ranch which she said stayed open longer than GunBun.  And there is was, bathing in late, long, evening sunshine just off the road to Los Carneros, open til 6pm.  The main building is stunning, an adobe-coloured, architecturally-pleasing winery which sits well in its landscape.  We spent 15 minutes just wandering round outside, meeting the resident dog and admiring the views and landscaping.  We moved inside and were cheerfully greeted by Lance, the winemaker and a colleague.  This is a man who just LOVES his job.  We spent the next hour or so happily chatting through his wines and beyond, plus a glimpse of his winery with gleaming stainless steel fermenting vats.  The owner was brought up here and she and her husband were persuaded to plant 31 acres of vines on the ranch back in 1995.  Valley Architects drew up plans for the tasting room, winery and underground cave, and her office is also here.  It is a glorious, impressive set-up, but not remotely pretentious.

Generous pourings and an impromptu tour given by a very friendly team at Nicholson Ranch

They produce 5-8,000 cases per annum and production is a small, family-run, intimate affair.  We ended up going off piste from the stipulated wine tasting as some wine members had been in earlier in the day and open bottles were just begging to be tasted…  First up was their 2008 Sangiacomo Vineyard Chardonnay, luscious, rich, more buttery and more delicious than anything else we’d tasted that day.  $32.  Then the 2007 Estate Chardonnay, 10 months in new French oak, but not overly wooded, crisp, good length, excellent acidity, $30.  The 2007 Estate Pinot Noir was correct and honest, without being exceptional, $38.  We did however adore the 2007 Estate Reserve Pinot Noir Cactus Hill, smoky & leathery, but the overall winner was the 2008 Estate Pinot Noir Dry Farmed, a huge, gutsy, full, tannic mouthful.  Yum.  $60.  Also good was the 2008 Sonoma Valley Merlot, with good forward fruit and a big finish.  We finished with two good Syrahs – their 2006 Estate Syrah @ $40 was smoky, tannic, oak-heavy, then we took our glass of 2006 Las Madres Syrah to the winery building with us as the sun set.  It slipped down quite beautifully as we admired the state-of-the-art equipment it had once sat fermenting in – and could happily have sat chatting to Lance until midnight.  But time was marching on, so back to the tasting room for a final chat about single malt whiskies, specifically Highland Park, and a promise to be back.  You will enjoy a visit here – splendid surroundings, some great wines, and passionate people doing a job they love.

Day 2 – Sparkling Sunday – Domaines Carneros and Chandon, then Schramsberg

Hi tech bubbly - gyropalettes replace the laborious manual task of 'remuage': turning bottles a fraction several times a day to chase out sediment

Domaine Carneros

Another beautiful day in the paradise that is the Sonoma Valley.  After a huge breakfast in the Black Bear Diner opposite our hotel, we headed to our first appointment of the day at Domaine Carneros.  My brother and sister-in-law were keen to visit some of the sparkling wine houses whilst in the area, and we were happy to oblige.  This faux chateau sits right beside the Sonoma to Napa road as it winds though the Carneros region, an imposing building, inspired architecturally by the Taittinger family’s Epernay Chateau de la Maquetterie.  Founded by the French champagne house back in 1988, it still looks somewhat out of place, but majestic, with its gates plonked alongside the drive.  We joined their Art of Sparkling Wine tour with about 8 others, led by Andrea & assisted by Josh.  It is all swish and under-stated perfection, but Andrea did bring the traditional, methode champenoise, wine-making process to life with glimpses of the tank room from the media room, then the gyro pallets and bottling plant.  Only Chardonnay and Pinot Noir grapes are grown here now on 310 acres – they have never planted Pinot Meunier and their last Merlot vintage was back in 2008 before the vines were pulled out.  Annual production totals 90,000 cases, of which 40,000 is of their Brut.  This is a huge, successful, top-notch operation, far from the raw winemaking found in smaller establishments.   Founding winemaker and CEO Eileen Crane is a strong presence and powerful advocate of Californian sparkling wines.

As for the wines themselves, they were elegant and restrained in style, but pricey for what they were.  The $95 2005 Le Reve Blanc de Blancs is available in the UK highstreet for GBP 45.  You really should only buy the wines here that you simply can’t source elsewhere  High volume & sustained quality is their trademark, the logo is all important.   One felt a strong sense of their corporate-leaning marketing, whilst pandering to the passing wine tourist.   A seriously upmarket Chateau Society Wine Club offers preferred pricing, but only for the truly well-heeled.   My personal favourite was their 2007 Famous Gate Pinot Noir, peppery and zingy, $68.  I also liked the $35 Domaine Carneros Estate Pinot Noir, and was intrigued to taste the white 2010 Pinot Clair, organic, 200 cases made, no skin contact.  They produce the full range of sparkling wines, from Ultra Brut to Demi-Sec (twice the sugar of the Brut, only 50 cases p.a.).

Domaine Chandon

We headed on down into the Napa Valley to Domaine Chandon.  Justin has visited their operation in Australia and wanted to see if they provided a similar experience.  In fact, what struck us most was the entrance foyer, all conference centre swathes and swirly carpets.  Upstairs to the tasting room, full of Sunday drinkers, noisy and impersonal, but with glorious views out from all sides, and sculptures and paintings in every direction.  A Chandon Ambassador welcomed us and we shared a Prestige and a Reserve Tasting.   The problem (although is it really one?) with champagne tasting is that you don’t spit, so spirits were already high and we struggled to stay focus on the selection before us.  We started with their Yountville Vintage Brut 2007 in lieu of the etoile Brut which was no longer available, this had a smooth bubble stream, light, nutty characteristics and yeasty on the nose.  $45.  Next the etoile Rose Non-Vintage, too flabby for my liking, not enough to justify $50 price tag.  The winery exclusive etoile Tete de Cuvee 2001 was delicious, more complex and zingy, but at $100 beyond my price range for value.    As a bonus, we were poured a Pinot Meunier Carneros, easy style soft, no tannin, my husband said it lacked a little bite, but intriguing to try a single varietal PM – Domaine Chandon were the first to introduce this grape into the US and is now the largest producer of it.  We left feeling happy we’d visited, but that we’d been a very small part of a marketing and commercial operation on a vast scale.

Schramsberger

So was our next port of call, but in a very different fashion.  We had pre-booked our tour and joined a party of 10 others with our guide, Todd.  He provided a lively and fascinating guide for the next hour.  Schramsberg dates back to 1852 when Jacob Schram, a German immigrant, purchased a large plot of land on the Napa hillside West of Healdsburg and called it Schramsberger.  He and his wife cleared the wooded, wild land and began to produce wine.  He hired Chinese labourers to dig the extraordinary underground cellars into the mountainside, thus maintaining cool, constant temperatures for storing his wines during the hot summers.  Started in 1870, the two tunnel caves were completed in 1888.  The style of his wines was heavily affected by his German background, and demand from the East Coast and beyond for Mosel-style wine (Hock, Riesling, Burgundy, Sauternes).  He lived to the ripe old age of 75, by which times his fortunes were secure and production was up to 12,000 gallons p.a.  However his son Herman who took on the business in 1905 was struck the double-blow of phylloxera then Prohibition, and the business was forced to close.

There are some wonderful photos on the walls of the entrance hall dating back to this era, discovered by a Schram descendant living in San Francisco.  Next to them are photos showing Robert Louis Stevenson fast asleep in a chair having drunk his way through 18 of the estate wines during a visit in 1880 whilst on his honeymoon in the area! (a visit which is recounted in his book Silverado Squatters).

Deep inside the mountain, a magical tasting overwhelmed our ability to differentiate between excellent wines

Several owners came and went over the next few decades, until Jack & Jamie Davies chanced upon the property when seeking a new life in the Napa area.  The house and outbuildings were near-derelict and it took huge courage and foresight to see how the business could be resurrected to its former glory.  However, with their three sons, the youngest of whom, Hugh, was newborn, arrived from Los Angeles and began the task of renovating and restoring and bringing the place back to life.  They had an ambition to make sparkling wine, but the very best, made in the traditional manner, on a par with the great Champagne houses of France.  They released their first Blanc de Blancs in 1965 using the first commercially grown Chardonnay grapes in the US.  A 1967 Blanc de Noirs followed produced using Pinot Noir and the methode champenoise.    Their Cremant Demi-sec, made using the Flora grape, was adopted by the White House and has been served at many state functions since.  The couple’s influence on heralding America’s place as a leading sparkling wine producer can not be under-estimated.  On their deaths in 1998 and 2008 respectively, their son Hugh took up their mantle and continues the dream.

Our tour led us deep into the dimly lit, sepulchral, underground caves, dug into the old volcano behind the house.  At  any one time, they could contain as many as 2.7 million bottles at various stages of aging the 2-10 years before they are released.   The impression of how this is a hands-on, manual operation is clear, with explanations of riddling the bottles clearly demonstrated by Todd – he leaves it to the pro, Ramon!  There were stories a-plenty from the Davies years, including one when Jamie had to play a hand of poker to reclaim some old, carved oak wine barrels that had ended up down at the Beringer winery, but rightly belonged to Shramsberg – even a photo to back it up!  The tour was fascinating and entertaining, full of anecdotes and intrigue, and finished at a candle-lit table in front of a fluted arch of about 6,000 aging bottles.  We tasted 6 wines, however sadly I have no notes, but the overall impression was of elegant, refined, crisp and high-quality sparklers.  The tour is highly recommended and you leave with a distinct impression of a winery high on success, deservedly so.

That evening with ate at a small Portguese restaurant off the square in Sonoma, La Salette.  The owner’s wife came from the same village in Portugal that my husband and brother-in-law’s grandparents had lived all their lives, Sintra.  We were treated like family and truly had a memorable meal, with a 2007 Merlot from Gundbach-Bunschu to accompany it.

Sonoma, here we come – Day 1 – Sebastiani, Benziger & Mayo

We flew into San Fran, grabbed our little rental car and arrived in Sonoma in time to meet my bro and sis in law at The Girl & the Fig.  Fabulous Syrah from Jus Soli with our steaks.  Bed at midnight (3am ET for us).  Thank goodness wineries don’t open too early…!

We woke to blue skies and warm temperatures, breakfasted in the garden of our hotel then grabbed a picnic from Whole Foods opposite and headed to our first port of call the other side of town.  The intention was to get a good initial overview of the area’s viniculture and we were not disappointed.  Kevin at Sebastiani Winery was a fount of knowledge, answered our endless questions, told us the history of the place, the Sebastiani family’s involvement before they sold out to Bill Foley in 2008, and then led us through the areas open to the public and back to the tasting room, a vast, slightly cavernous, impersonal space, but probably fit for the crowds in the summer months.

Sebastiani, Sonoma

The Sebastiani tasting room - needs a crowd

Samuele Sebastiani came from an area near Lucca, Italy to found this winemaking operation in 1895 and continued running the business through Prohibition when they were one of only 10 wineries in California granted a permit to continue making wine for sacramental and medicinal purposes.   His son August, a skilled and innovative winemaker, took on the family business in 1944, adding more varietal blends and expanding the facility.  A keen ornothologist, he encouraged Earle Brown to hand-carve every possible wooden surface with ducks, swans and images from the wine-making year, so doors, barrels, end pieces, shelves, etc. are the visual proof of one man’s skill with a lathe – the collection is striking.  The building where they press and ferment the grapes is a whole different story, all clean, shining stainless steel which cost a cool $6 million to build – no-one could say winemaking is a cheap business, on this scale anyway.  Winemaker Mark Lyon studied at UC Davis before starting here in 1979, working up to the position of winemaker in 1985 and from then on in, building up the winery’s reputation for small-production wines sourced from the Sonoma Valley appellation, rather than the legacy of 8-million cases of bulk wine legacy back in 2001.

The tour given by Kevin was excellent

The 7-wine tasting started with their 2009 Russian River Viognier, a luscious, almond, floral mouthful, rich, clean and dry.  $35.  Then a 2009 St Patrick’s Chardonnay, very similar in style to an Old World Chablis, fermented in used oad, racked using egg white, so super-clean, crisp, stony with delicate fruit, beautiful.  Their 2009 Carneros Pinot Noir is only available at the vineyards, production being only 500 cases, and had fabulous depth and character, toasty, spicy, gamey, red cherry hints, with good finish and tannins.  I really liked this wine and at $26 per bottle, I could happily indulge in a case or two.  The 2008 Barbera Sonoma Valley was a tad disappointing, great tannin but short finish, tart, needed food.  Their 2009 Alexander Valley Merlot was ripe, black fruit, little chocolate, plummy, quite well-rounded.  Better still was their 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon Sonoma Valley, brambley, earthy, soft oak, plenty of character to age, nice finish.  $34.  I really liked the 2007 Secolo Red, a blend of Malbec, Merlot, Petit Verdot, Cabernet Sauvignon & Petit Syrah – plummy, cherry fruit, rich and very good.  Kevin then added a 2008 Syrah which was full-bodied, rich, balanced with spicy and pepper, an elegant wine.

Touring the vines at Benziger

Benziger Winery, Kenwood

We then headed North up Highway 12 to Benziger Family Winery, which K was keen to visit as she admired their biodynamic, sustainable and organic ethos.  What a place – nestled in a swathe of terraced hillsides, this place is totally at one with nature.  The family first came to the property 30 years ago from Great Plains, New York and have made this piece of Sonoma County their very own, with many members of the extended family now involved in all aspects of the winery.  We had our picnic on the deck amidst old wooden buildings, surrounded by eucalyptus trees and towering buck-eyes.  The tasting room is intriguing, with a wine library and a whole section dedicated to their signature wine, Tribute.  We chose the Estate, Biodynamic & Single Vineyard Tasting Menu for $20 and Greg took us through 7 wines, 2 white, 5 reds.  Unfortunately, there were plenty of people there which meant the explanation of each wine was rather half-hearted, almost curt, but we enjoyed working our way through the card.  They produce 130,000 p.a., with 8% of the grapes grown in situ on 35 acres of the 85 acre ranch.  Jeff MacBride is the winemaker, although Mike Benziger takes control of the Tribute wine each year, in memory of his father Bruno who established a wine import business back in New York before his son moved West.  The 2010 Signaterra Sauvignon Blanc was very forward on the nose, with plenty of honey and pear fruit, yet still soft and balanced.  The 2009 Signaterra Chardonnay “West Rows” was very much a European-style Chardonnay, clean, delicate and buttery, with vanilla from its oak aging.  More to my husband’s taste than mine.

On to the reds…  The 2009 Bella Luna Pinot Noir was fabulous – intense cherry, concentrated spice and peppery tones, big in the mouth.  The 2006 Oonapais (buck-eye mountain in Mohic) was not showing well, slightly cloying with a strange bitter aftertaste and brown edge (thanks for noting that, Kristen!).  We suggested the bottle was gone, but Greg didn’t seem too bothered and moved on to the 2007 Three Blocks Bx Blend.  76% Cab Sauv, 24% Merlot, big tannins, leather, smoke, cigar.  2007 Obsidian is made by grapes wholly grown on site, 50% Cab, 22 Cab Franc, 18 Merlot, 10 Petit Verdot.  Promises lots on the nose, but didn’t truly deliver, certainly not at $65 per bottle.  However the finale was fabulous – the 2007 Tribute Bordeaux Blend, made entirely from estate-grown grapes, was superb, 84% Cab, 10% Cab Franc, 3% Merlot, 3% PV.  When first made back in 2001, it was America’s very first biodynamic wine and it is the label the Benzinger family hang their hat on.  Rich , layered, long, lingering tannins, a truly great mouthful.

We were then given a bonus glass of 2006 Port, primarily made from Malbec grapes, good and well-made, a delicious ending to an enjoyable, if lacklustre, tasting.

Daffodils in January - pleasing to the visitor but worrying to the winegrower

Mayo, Kenwood

As we headed back to the highway, we noticed that Mayo tasting room was still in full swing at 5.30 (late for these parts), so decided to pop in for the last tasting of the day.  They specialise in single-vineyard wines from small lots throughout the valley and have 3 tasting rooms, selling direct or online only.  It turned out it was Club Members’ weekend with plenty of bargains and discounts to be had, so the joint was jumping.  An extremely affable pourer greeted us like long-lost friends and set us up for the Premium Tasting, a bargain at $6 each.  The 2010 Chardonnay Laurel Hill was a class, unwooded, zingy number, almost with a spritz on the tongue, forward fruit, clean and crisp.  The 2008 Chardonnay, also from Laurel Hill, spends some time in neutral oak, so a strange combination of mineral, stony tones and mild butteriness.  The 2008 Pinot Noir La Cruz Dijon Clones was from a small lot in the Petaluma Gap, rocky soil giving it a pungency and depth, red currant flavours.  It holds up well and benefits from its 18 months on French oak. They only produce 240 cases of this wine, $35.  Then onto our first Zinfandel from the Valley, a 2008 Ricci Vineyard Old Vines from Russian River, again small production (384 cases) of deliciousness.  Really jammy on the finish, power and finesse, spicy and tangy, $40.  The 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon Red Dog from a Napa County vineyard certainly had bite, a meaty, leathery mouthful, would age further, rich and intense.  Lastly, we were poured a 2007 Cav Sauv from Random Ridge, again a Napa lot, producing a huge, tannic, delicious sip.  For pure zest for life and enthusiasm, plus their focus on single vineyard wines, this place is hard not to like.

We then headed home to chill out before supper in a superlative little Portuguese restaurant, La Salette off the square in Sonoma, with a 2007 Merlot from Gundlach-Bundschu (aka GunBun) to complement my Goan Lamb.  A truly sumptuous end to our very first day in Sonoma.  Bring it on!