Sonoma, here we come – Day 1 – Sebastiani, Benziger & Mayo

We flew into San Fran, grabbed our little rental car and arrived in Sonoma in time to meet my bro and sis in law at The Girl & the Fig.  Fabulous Syrah from Jus Soli with our steaks.  Bed at midnight (3am ET for us).  Thank goodness wineries don’t open too early…!

We woke to blue skies and warm temperatures, breakfasted in the garden of our hotel then grabbed a picnic from Whole Foods opposite and headed to our first port of call the other side of town.  The intention was to get a good initial overview of the area’s viniculture and we were not disappointed.  Kevin at Sebastiani Winery was a fount of knowledge, answered our endless questions, told us the history of the place, the Sebastiani family’s involvement before they sold out to Bill Foley in 2008, and then led us through the areas open to the public and back to the tasting room, a vast, slightly cavernous, impersonal space, but probably fit for the crowds in the summer months.

Sebastiani, Sonoma

The Sebastiani tasting room - needs a crowd

Samuele Sebastiani came from an area near Lucca, Italy to found this winemaking operation in 1895 and continued running the business through Prohibition when they were one of only 10 wineries in California granted a permit to continue making wine for sacramental and medicinal purposes.   His son August, a skilled and innovative winemaker, took on the family business in 1944, adding more varietal blends and expanding the facility.  A keen ornothologist, he encouraged Earle Brown to hand-carve every possible wooden surface with ducks, swans and images from the wine-making year, so doors, barrels, end pieces, shelves, etc. are the visual proof of one man’s skill with a lathe – the collection is striking.  The building where they press and ferment the grapes is a whole different story, all clean, shining stainless steel which cost a cool $6 million to build – no-one could say winemaking is a cheap business, on this scale anyway.  Winemaker Mark Lyon studied at UC Davis before starting here in 1979, working up to the position of winemaker in 1985 and from then on in, building up the winery’s reputation for small-production wines sourced from the Sonoma Valley appellation, rather than the legacy of 8-million cases of bulk wine legacy back in 2001.

The tour given by Kevin was excellent

The 7-wine tasting started with their 2009 Russian River Viognier, a luscious, almond, floral mouthful, rich, clean and dry.  $35.  Then a 2009 St Patrick’s Chardonnay, very similar in style to an Old World Chablis, fermented in used oad, racked using egg white, so super-clean, crisp, stony with delicate fruit, beautiful.  Their 2009 Carneros Pinot Noir is only available at the vineyards, production being only 500 cases, and had fabulous depth and character, toasty, spicy, gamey, red cherry hints, with good finish and tannins.  I really liked this wine and at $26 per bottle, I could happily indulge in a case or two.  The 2008 Barbera Sonoma Valley was a tad disappointing, great tannin but short finish, tart, needed food.  Their 2009 Alexander Valley Merlot was ripe, black fruit, little chocolate, plummy, quite well-rounded.  Better still was their 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon Sonoma Valley, brambley, earthy, soft oak, plenty of character to age, nice finish.  $34.  I really liked the 2007 Secolo Red, a blend of Malbec, Merlot, Petit Verdot, Cabernet Sauvignon & Petit Syrah – plummy, cherry fruit, rich and very good.  Kevin then added a 2008 Syrah which was full-bodied, rich, balanced with spicy and pepper, an elegant wine.

Touring the vines at Benziger

Benziger Winery, Kenwood

We then headed North up Highway 12 to Benziger Family Winery, which K was keen to visit as she admired their biodynamic, sustainable and organic ethos.  What a place – nestled in a swathe of terraced hillsides, this place is totally at one with nature.  The family first came to the property 30 years ago from Great Plains, New York and have made this piece of Sonoma County their very own, with many members of the extended family now involved in all aspects of the winery.  We had our picnic on the deck amidst old wooden buildings, surrounded by eucalyptus trees and towering buck-eyes.  The tasting room is intriguing, with a wine library and a whole section dedicated to their signature wine, Tribute.  We chose the Estate, Biodynamic & Single Vineyard Tasting Menu for $20 and Greg took us through 7 wines, 2 white, 5 reds.  Unfortunately, there were plenty of people there which meant the explanation of each wine was rather half-hearted, almost curt, but we enjoyed working our way through the card.  They produce 130,000 p.a., with 8% of the grapes grown in situ on 35 acres of the 85 acre ranch.  Jeff MacBride is the winemaker, although Mike Benziger takes control of the Tribute wine each year, in memory of his father Bruno who established a wine import business back in New York before his son moved West.  The 2010 Signaterra Sauvignon Blanc was very forward on the nose, with plenty of honey and pear fruit, yet still soft and balanced.  The 2009 Signaterra Chardonnay “West Rows” was very much a European-style Chardonnay, clean, delicate and buttery, with vanilla from its oak aging.  More to my husband’s taste than mine.

On to the reds…  The 2009 Bella Luna Pinot Noir was fabulous – intense cherry, concentrated spice and peppery tones, big in the mouth.  The 2006 Oonapais (buck-eye mountain in Mohic) was not showing well, slightly cloying with a strange bitter aftertaste and brown edge (thanks for noting that, Kristen!).  We suggested the bottle was gone, but Greg didn’t seem too bothered and moved on to the 2007 Three Blocks Bx Blend.  76% Cab Sauv, 24% Merlot, big tannins, leather, smoke, cigar.  2007 Obsidian is made by grapes wholly grown on site, 50% Cab, 22 Cab Franc, 18 Merlot, 10 Petit Verdot.  Promises lots on the nose, but didn’t truly deliver, certainly not at $65 per bottle.  However the finale was fabulous – the 2007 Tribute Bordeaux Blend, made entirely from estate-grown grapes, was superb, 84% Cab, 10% Cab Franc, 3% Merlot, 3% PV.  When first made back in 2001, it was America’s very first biodynamic wine and it is the label the Benzinger family hang their hat on.  Rich , layered, long, lingering tannins, a truly great mouthful.

We were then given a bonus glass of 2006 Port, primarily made from Malbec grapes, good and well-made, a delicious ending to an enjoyable, if lacklustre, tasting.

Daffodils in January - pleasing to the visitor but worrying to the winegrower

Mayo, Kenwood

As we headed back to the highway, we noticed that Mayo tasting room was still in full swing at 5.30 (late for these parts), so decided to pop in for the last tasting of the day.  They specialise in single-vineyard wines from small lots throughout the valley and have 3 tasting rooms, selling direct or online only.  It turned out it was Club Members’ weekend with plenty of bargains and discounts to be had, so the joint was jumping.  An extremely affable pourer greeted us like long-lost friends and set us up for the Premium Tasting, a bargain at $6 each.  The 2010 Chardonnay Laurel Hill was a class, unwooded, zingy number, almost with a spritz on the tongue, forward fruit, clean and crisp.  The 2008 Chardonnay, also from Laurel Hill, spends some time in neutral oak, so a strange combination of mineral, stony tones and mild butteriness.  The 2008 Pinot Noir La Cruz Dijon Clones was from a small lot in the Petaluma Gap, rocky soil giving it a pungency and depth, red currant flavours.  It holds up well and benefits from its 18 months on French oak. They only produce 240 cases of this wine, $35.  Then onto our first Zinfandel from the Valley, a 2008 Ricci Vineyard Old Vines from Russian River, again small production (384 cases) of deliciousness.  Really jammy on the finish, power and finesse, spicy and tangy, $40.  The 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon Red Dog from a Napa County vineyard certainly had bite, a meaty, leathery mouthful, would age further, rich and intense.  Lastly, we were poured a 2007 Cav Sauv from Random Ridge, again a Napa lot, producing a huge, tannic, delicious sip.  For pure zest for life and enthusiasm, plus their focus on single vineyard wines, this place is hard not to like.

We then headed home to chill out before supper in a superlative little Portuguese restaurant, La Salette off the square in Sonoma, with a 2007 Merlot from Gundlach-Bundschu (aka GunBun) to complement my Goan Lamb.  A truly sumptuous end to our very first day in Sonoma.  Bring it on!